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    Tuesday, April 26, 2011

    Woodlot - You catch more bees with honey...

    I recently made two dinner reservations on the same evening for the same occasion. One was at Origin, which Toronto Life had recently ranked as our city's Number One restaurant. It sounded exciting, but challenging. Chris Nuttall-Smith wrote of Origin, "Ear-blistering ’70s rock, kitchen pyrotechnics, Godzilla figurines—they’re all part of the magic at Claudio Aprile’s madhouse of a restaurant" and "Origin is occasionally maddening (the Black Sabbath cranked to 11; the hurried service) but it's also brilliant..."


    Grapefruit cocktail with bitters
    I started to second-guess myself . For a birthday dinner, it might be nice to sit somewhere more relaxing than geniale, somewhere that doesn't offer an assault! on the senses. Origin seems like the kind of place one might need to brace herself for- less a dining experience and more of an adventure.


    I was also surprised to see that Toronto Life had originally ranked the restaurant with two-and-a-half stars before putting it at the top of their 2011 restaurant list. Either the magazine is not consistent or Origin really stepped up their game in recent months. 


    Lastly, and perhaps, most significantly of all, I still have residual beef with Origin's owner, Claudio Aprile, over a coke-induced heated tyrade he went on against food bloggers. You can read my less-than-pleased post here: "Biting the hand that feeds."


    Gnocchi with goat cheese and poppyseed


    I'm sure I'll go there eventually, but, quite frankly, Origin keeps getting kicked down my list of places to visit becuase of Chef Aprile's foolish misstep.


    So where did I go instead? Woodlot. Occupying the former location of my favourite the only club I enjoyed attending in Toronto, Octopus, I was hoping some of that location's charm would rub off. 


    And it did.


    By contrast to Origin, other reviews of Woodlot continually made reference to the cozy atmosphere and comforting, carb-heavy menu. A number of people mentioned the spectacular wood-burning oven. It sounded like a pleasureable experience and pleasure is certainly more my scene.


    I knew I liked the place as soon as the hostess greeted us. She was kind and warm in a very genuine way. My positive impression continued as we sat down in the upper loft. Light poured through the skylight, drawing attention to the wine cellar and dark wood details. Our server arrived, even friendlier than the hostess. I ordered a white grapefruit and vodka cocktail with bitters. My companion had a nice, bitter stout.


    Steak, medium-rare
    We decided to share a large portion of goat cheese and poppyseed gnocchi ($19) to start. It was divine - creamy and unexpected. Goaty, without being too gamey. The poopyseeds were an unexpected and creative addition, popping pleasantly in our mouths.


    Another detail I noticed was the wardrobe of the servers: different-coloured, loose-fitted men's shirts- classic and comfortable. Whenever I go somewhere and the waitresses are dressed in barely-there miniskirts or cleavage-revealing tops, I shudder and then wonder how the food is going to taste. Don't get me wrong, I understand the way the world works. I know staff members need to get tips, but I expect this kind of costuming from a club or a bar, not a restaurant. (Take note Nota Bene.) The men's shirts also fit the clever lodge-like motif of Woodlot. The whole place feels very Canadian without being an over-the-top hunting lodge caricature.
    Snails and bacon on a bed of polenta


    My companion ordered the steak, which arrived on a gorgeous wood plank and had a gooey dollop of herb butter on top ($29.) I ordered snails and bacon on a bed of polenta. It was served with a delicious, brown reduction and some wilted greens, mushrooms and scattered with pumpkin seeds ($24.) Very umami. The polenta had been grilled in such a way that it retained its composition. Both the dishes were perfectly seasoned. 


    Because of the decadent nature of our mains, we shared a side of rapini ($6), which was tossed in herbs, hot peppers, lemon and butter. It was perfectly cooked, retaining the bite of the vegetable. Depending on how long you've been reading this blog, you'll know how much I love rapini. I really appreciate this recent restaurant trend of offering side vegetables for the table to share. Turnips were another tempting option that I will try on another occasion.


    Rapini tossed in herbs, lemon and butter
    We finished the meal with a lemon curd and wild blueberry tart that was topped with an earth-shattering pillow of homemade mashmallow. The combination sounded intriguing, but the result was far more than the sum of its parts. The flavours melded together. Why has no one put marshmallows with lemon before. Why has no one told me about this! I absolutely loved it. 


    Frankly, the more I reflect on my experience at Woodlot, the better it gets. It's a comfortable unpretentious place to go for a birthday or romantic dinner. The coziness makes it feel a little wintery so I wonder if the menu will lighten up in the hotter months.


    I wholeheartedly recommend you try this spot. Its atmosphere makes it suitable for the whole family. The bakery opens early in the morning, offering warm and sweet baked goods, which I must return to try.
    Lemon curd and wild blueberry tarte with marshmallow

    Woodlot
    293 Palmerston Avenue
    Toronto, ON M6J 2J3
    (647) 342-6307

    Reservations Recommended


    Hours Tuesday-Friday 
    7:30am-4pm, 5pm-2am
    Weekends 

    8:30am-4pm, 5pm-2am



    4.5 Star Anises (out of a possible 5)

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